Open Access Publications
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Open access publications by faculty, postdocs, and graduate students in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies
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Item Raja Redux(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-17) Mishra, Veepra; Roelse, KatyaRaja Redux reflects an Indian-American heritage by blending tradition and modernity. Inspired by the saree’s pleating and draping with the structured masculinity of menswear oxfords, this design symbolizes balancing cultural identity and new influences. The design pays homage to Rajasthan’s saree draping style (Kaamya, 2019) while incorporating traditional block printing and sheesha embroidery (Ganguly, 2013). Drawing from designers like Siddhartha Tytler, Jugnu Lahore, and Suketdhir, the design fuses fashion, merging cultural craftsmanship with Western silhouettes. This garment celebrates Indian sartorial history while reinterpreting it through contemporary formalwear, honoring heritage while embracing innovation.Item Illusion Rainsdrops- a 4D Knitting Exploration(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Gorea, AdrianaWhen combining 3D knitted textures and shapes with optical illusion patterns, an interactive 4D effect can be achieved, an interdisciplinary research area of growing interest for the author and many other scholars. One optical illusion knitting technique lesser known originated with a Japanese teacher who explained a simple technique of alternating rows of dark and light-colored yarns knitted with a garter stitch to produce patterns that appear and disappear depending on the angle from which the fabric is viewed. The purpose of this project was to explore how the illusion knitting technique can be manipulated into a shaped garment using various 3D knitting techniques for an optical illusion slimming 4D effect. This scholarship, combining techniques from old craftmanship with current knitting technologies, elevates the use of illusion knitting from purely aesthetic means to a functional 4D effect aimed at optically sliming the silhouette.Item Assessment of Graduated Compression Stockings: Variation in Fabric Properties Among Different Sizes(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Gorea, Adriana; Megivern, SarahThe purpose of this study was to investigate the physical properties of one size range (S-XXL) of a commercial brand of medical grade GCS and determine how the material properties change between sock sizes. Understanding these differences could help GCS manufacturers improve their sizing design process, resulting in more consistent pressure properties across sock sizes. One pair of a complete size range of knee-length medical grade GCS were purchased from a reputed domestic manufacturer. The medium compression GCS were made of 90%bamboo 10%spandex, with a pressure range of 20-30mmHg, knitted on Lonati 240N circular sock machine. ANOVA was used to evaluate the effect of ‘SockSize’ and Level (‘Ankle’ and ‘Calf’) on all dependent variables. The results of this study highlight the inconsistent fabric properties across a size range of medical grade GCS, with the larger sizes having potentially lower pressures on the leg than the smaller sizes.Item The Maker Space Pants: Size Range Design using the Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic Needs Model(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Tomasch, Jenna; Gorea, AdrianaThe purpose of this undergraduate summer fellow project was to investigate the user-needs for Maker Pants at a U.S. eastern university and design a solution that will specifically address safety as well as all functional, aesthetic and expressive user- needs. The results suggest that, within the Maker Space user pool, each size has slightly different design needs regarding functionality and fit. Proportionally grading the design details up and down in size does not meet the short size user-needs appropriately, an issue that becomes imperative in the case of safety features. This study expands the range of scholarship using the FEA framework, highlighting how the functional apparel design process for multiple sized items needs iterative evaluations and a large pool of users for each size created. These results could be used by apparel designers to improve the functionality of large scale sized functional apparel.Item ReSpool: An Approach to Scaling a Circular System for Textile Recycling and Sustainable Textile Innovation Through Convergence Research(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-20) Cobb, Kelly; Thomas, Kedron; Clarke-Sather, Abigail; Cao, HuantianThe fashion industry significantly contributes to environmental degradation, accounting for 8-10% of global CO2 emissions and 20% of industrial water pollution. With over 100 million tons of textile waste generated annually, the need for systemic change in production and consumption is urgent. ReSpool offers a scalable, circular approach to textile recycling and sustainable innovation through transdisciplinary convergence research. Leveraging regional ecosystems, the initiative partners with academia, government, industry, and nonprofits to transform post-consumer fashion waste into valuable products. Over the past year, ReSpool established partnerships across the Delaware Valley and Upper Midwest regions, including with Goodwill Industries and sustainable textile innovators. The team developed groundbreaking technologies such as a Fiber Shredder for creating reusable fibers and prototyped processes for manufacturing woven and nonwoven textiles. Through stakeholder interviews, design thinking methodologies, and user feedback, ReSpool refined processes, preparing for further testing and commercial applications. This research underscores the potential of regional collaboration.Item Innovative Methods for Secondary Material Development in Mechanical Textile Recycling(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-20) Yatvitskiy, Michelle; Ludwig, Kendall; Gupman, Sophia; Cobb, Kelly; Cao, Huantian; Clarke-Sather, AbigailThe textile and apparel industry generates significant waste, with only 14.7% of the 17 million tons produced in 2018 being recycled. Current mechanical recycling efforts often result in downcycled products and lack scalability for commercial viability. This research explored innovative methods for developing yarns and nonwoven fabrics using mechanically recycled fibers ("Respool fibers") to address these challenges. End-of-use 100% denim cotton and polyester fabrics were shredded into fibers and blended with new fibers at 65% and 85% recycled-to-new ratios. The fibers were processed into yarns and nonwoven fabrics, and their durability (tensile strength, elongation) and comfort (thickness, air permeability) properties were analyzed. Results showed that yarns with 65%, 85%, and 100% recycled polyester exhibited comparable tenacity, demonstrating potential for high recycled fiber content without sacrificing strength. Nonwoven fabrics with higher recycled content were more breathable, suggesting suitability for applications prioritizing air permeability. These findings advance circularity in textile production.Item La Vie en Roses: Together and Apart, an (Un)braided Model Approach(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-20) Cobb, Kelly; Ridgway, Jessica L.; Parsons, JeanLa Vie en roses represents Phase 2 of a multi-phase research project to expand the braided design model. The team of designers created a digitally printed garment with additional fiber art variations of the print to form a three-dimensional component. The final pattern, inspired by a Madame Grès one-piece jacket, allows continuous flow of the engineered print. The team expanded the design with a striped textile print for the lining using “color hearing” through psychomimicry. As much of the print involved roses in shades of pink and peach, the song La Vie en Rose was selected. The striped print is also incorporated as the main jacket background, with additional circular motifs to balance the large floral images. Three-dimensional floral elements, created through dyeless shaped resist, with raw edges and beading, expand the design spatially and texturally. A third silk organza layer can be worn either up or down as a peplum.Item DelaWEAR: An interdisciplinary team’s discovery learning approach to reducing post-consumer textile waste through experiential retail(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-20) Yatvitskiy, Michelle; Rack, Miranda; Mishra, Veepra; Cobb, KellyDelaWEAR explores a comprehensive, interdisciplinary approach to sustainable fashion by leveraging community partnerships and educational initiatives. In collaboration with Goodwill, discarded textiles are repurposed and sold in an on-campus fabric store at the University of Delaware, marking the first phase, “Collection and Re-Distribution.” The second phase, “Educational Initiatives,” focuses on consumer education through events like Sip and Sew workshops and children’s summer camps, teaching practical skills for clothing repair and upcycling. The final phase, “Merchandise Collection,” involves repurposing textiles into University of Delaware merchandise designed by students, fostering cross-disciplinary collaboration and experiential learning. As a self-sustaining model, the initiative integrates learning into its framework, providing students with hands-on opportunities while addressing critical gaps in consumer education about sustainable fashion. With support from a $50,000 university grant, future efforts will focus on scaling the business model, including real estate acquisition, product development, and curriculum integration, to create long-term impact in sustainability education.Item The Respool Fiber Research (RFR) model: A protocol for the evaluation of mechanically recycled materials towards “second life” product applications(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Ludwig, Kendall; Yatvitskiy, Michelle; Cobb, Kelly; Cao, HuantianThe Respool Fiber Research (RFR) model provides a comprehensive protocol for evaluating mechanically recycled textiles for "second life" product applications, addressing critical gaps in the circular economy. With textile waste predominantly landfilled, mechanical recycling often results in short, weak fibers unsuitable for high-value products. The RFR model leverages sensory evaluations and laboratory testing to guide the transformation of recycled fibers into yarn or nonwoven prototypes. Demonstrating its applicability with 100% recycled cotton denim and wool, the model prioritizes material consistency, compatibility, and upcycling potential. Key steps include assessing fiber properties, blending for consistency, and determining appropriate prototype pathways through tensile and elongation testing. The RFR model advances beyond existing frameworks, enabling educators, researchers, and developers to optimize recycled materials for multi-use cycles. Future research will scale the model for broader industry application, fostering sustainability and innovation in textile recycling.Item Eco-Conscious Design Process: Natural Dyed Knitwear with Innovative 3D Motifs(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Tyler, Casey; Gorea, AdrianaThis research project was aimed at demonstrating the feasibility of producing eco-conscious knitwear that prioritizes environmental sustainability without compromising on aesthetic appeal or functionality. The knowledge through practice methodology guided the development of a modular sweater on a flatbed knitting machine. By looking for innovative approaches to material selection, dyeing processes, and garment construction, this project seeks to inspire broader adoption of sustainable practices within the fashion industry. The inspiration for this study was derived from the octopus, reflecting its organic patterns and red-orange hues in the color of the yarns and the shape of the repeating 3D motif. Sustainability was prioritized through the hierarchy of the knitted garment design process, from fiber and yarn selection to fabric design and assembly stages. By integrating upcycled materials, natural dyeing, innovative 3D machine-knitting, and sustainable assembly techniques, the design process explored in this project achieved a balance between aesthetics and environmental consciousness.Item Effect of natural dyes on the sensitivity of knitted strain sensors(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Tyler, Casey; Gorea, AdrianaSoft gloves with incorporated strain sensors for wrist flexion monitoring have been proposed as an aid to the physiotherapists assisting stroke patients with their hand rehabilitation exercises. Most of the reported strain sensor testing methods only involve unidirectional fabric tensile tests, but in actual applications, when sensors are on a knitted glove, the fabric is subject to complex multidirectional stretching. The purpose of this study was to investigate how natural dyes affect the sensing performance of a knitted strain sensor seamlessly integrated into a fingerless glove, aimed at detecting wrist flexing motions.The results show that natural dyes improve the knit sensor performance by affecting its strain, except for the sensors made using 100% baby alpaca fibers. The fiber composition clearly influences the sensitivity after dyeing, and osage dye is less effective than the logwood dye, except for the sensors made with 100% bamboo yarn.Item Backward Bunny(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-18) Tyler, Casey; Roelse, Katya; Gorea, AdrianaThis project aimed to provide non-binary individuals with an outfit designed for enjoying nightlife confidently, reflecting a key aspect of Gen-Z culture and social interaction. Each garment piece was designed to show or hint at the body underneath the garment while distorting the silhouette in a different way. The outfit drew inspiration from the sea bunny, a miniature, fluffy, hermaphrodite sea slug, blurring the lines of gender-specific fashion and showcasing sustainable design principles. With this ensemble, the body is the highlight, and the use of bright yellows was meant to both draw the eye towards details as well as communicate awareness. This ensemble stands out for its unique approach to gender-fluid fashion, combining innovative design techniques with sustainable practices. The reversible pants and knit top offer versatility rarely seen in traditional fashion, while using natural dyes and recycled materials highlights a commitment to fashion sustainability.Item Creating Open Educational Resources (OER) for Global Apparel Trade and Sourcing Courses(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-13) Lu, ShengThis study shared the best practices and discussed the opportunities and challenges of using open educational resources (OER) in global sourcing classes.Item How Has the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) Affected U.S. Apparel Import?(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-13) Lu, Sheng; Delaye, EmilieImplemented in June 2022, the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) prohibits U.S. companies from importing apparel wholly or in part produced in China’s Xinjiang region. UFLPA could significantly alter U.S. apparel import patterns as fashion companies have begun or anticipate adjusting their sourcing base to comply with the law and mitigate the forced labor risks in the supply chain. This study quantitatively evaluated the impacts of the UFLPA on U.S. apparel imports nearly two years after the law’s implementation. Unlike existing studies primarily focusing on UFLPA’s political or legal aspects, this study’s findings enhance our understanding of the economic and trade implications of the new law. The results also provide valuable input, helping fashion companies develop appropriate strategies in response to UFLPA’s implementation and the shifting sourcing environment.Item Reviving Fashion: Exploring U.S. Retailers’ Merchandising Strategies for Upcycled Clothing(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2025-01-13) Hansen, Alexa; Lu, ShengThis study explored U.S. retailers’ merchandising strategies for upcycled clothing compared with regular new garments (i.e., not upcycled). Specifically, by leveraging thousands of product-level data, the study examined U.S. retailers’ detailed product assortment, design features, and pricing practices for upcycled clothing. The study’s findings helped us gain more insights into the business aspect of upcycling, identify the supply gap, and provide valuable input for retailers interested in expanding into the growing upcycled clothing market.Item Fundamental Challenges and Opportunities for Textile Circularity(Sustainability, 2024-12-18) Thomas, Kedron; Durrani, Hira; Brady, Julia; Ludwig, Kendall; Yatvitskiy, Michelle; Clarke-Sather, Abigail R.; Cao, Huantian; Cobb, KellyThe negative environmental impacts of the current linear system of textile and apparel production are well-documented and require urgent action. The sector lacks an effective recycling system, resulting in massive waste and environmental pollution. This paper presents the results of qualitative research involving textile and apparel industry stakeholders, including representatives from brands and retailers, waste collectors, recyclers, non-profit organizations, academic institutions, and government agencies. Our research focused on stakeholder perceptions of the significance and importance of textile circularity, the challenges that exist for transitioning the textile and apparel industry from a linear system to a circular economy (CE), and resources that exist to support this transition. The results of this study call attention to the following urgent requirements: a consistent definition of CE to promote transparency and accountability and prevent greenwashing; improved systems for materials identification, sorting, and pre-processing of post-consumer textile waste to enable recycling; innovations in mechanical recycling technologies to maintain the value of recycled materials; and new, materials-driven approaches to design and manufacturing that are responsive to feedstock variability and diverse consumer needs. The research findings also suggest the need for flexible, regional CEs that are rooted in community partnerships.Item The use of clothing as a mood enhancer and its effect on mental health in emerging adults in Canada during a global pandemic(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2024-01-23) Wenderski, Malgosia; Jung, Jaehee; Wasilewski, JuliaThe advent of the COVID-19 pandemic had disrupted lifestyles and diminished mental health. It was unclear if emerging adults continued their high engagement with clothing during the peaks of the pandemic. The relationship between clothing, mood, and mental health was also unknown. This study surveyed 574 emerging adults in Canada and investigated how the pandemic had affected both clothing engagement and the use of clothing as a mood enhancer, and how this relationship impacted mental health. The study found that greater fear of COVID-19 predicted and positively correlated with fashion involvement and altering mood through clothing. Individuals reported multiple motivations to enhance mood through clothing, including bolstering the self-concept, self-esteem, and comfort. Therefore, clothing facilitated coping among emerging adults in Canada. No relationship was found between mood enhancement and mental health. Future research is encouraged to further explore and clarify the relationship between clothing, mood, and mental health.Item Field to Virtual Fashion: Development and Initial Testing of a Virtual Textile Foundations SIMLab(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2022-12-31) Beckett, Angela; Cobb, KellyThe purpose of this study is to develop and launch a virtual textile simulation lab focused on cotton fiber and fabric. Virtual simulation labs enable students the opportunity to experiment with cutting-edge technology in an accessible learning environment and carry out experiments otherwise not possible without being in-person.Item Service Design: Developing A Creative Ideation and Low-Tech Rapid Prototyping Toolkit for Multicolores Embroidery Project(International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings, 2022-12-31) Cobb, KellyThe Purpose of this design research was to develop a creative ideation and low tech rapid prototyping toolkit based on artisan-defined needs and criteria. The aim was apply creative expertise responsively, toward the beneficial use and in service to others. Cross-cultural design interventions ideally respect and attempt to encourage artisanal creativity and agency. In this scenario, the design researcher bridges a gap, facilitating artisans in an effort to better compete with the products and practices of modern industrialization.Item Explore U.S. Retailers’ Sourcing Strategies for Clothing Made from Recycled Textile Materials(Sustainability, 2022-12-20) Lu, ShengThis study explored U.S. retailers’ sourcing patterns for clothing made from recycled textile materials. Based on a statistical analysis of over 3000 such clothing items for sale in the U.S. retail market from January 2019 to August 2022 at the Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) level, the study found that U.S. retailers adopted a diverse sourcing base for clothing made from recycled textile materials, covering developed and developing economies worldwide. Additionally, an exporting country’s economic development level and geographic location had statistically significant impacts on U.S. retailers’ sourcing patterns for clothing made from recycled textile materials regarding assortment diversity, product sophistication, market segments, and pricing. The study’s findings revealed the broad supply base for clothing made from recycled textile materials and suggested promising sourcing opportunities for such products. The findings also indicated that sourcing clothing made from recycled textile materials may help U.S. retailers achieve business benefits beyond the positive environmental impacts.