Stakeholder expectations for environmental performance within the apparel industry
Date
2010
Authors
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
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Publisher
University of Delaware
Abstract
Every stage of the apparel production process has the potential to impact the
environment. Using R. E. Freeman’s 1984 stakeholder theory as a framework this
work seeks to a) identify current stakeholder groups’ expectations for environmental
performance on key environmental issues within the apparel industry and b) evaluate
stakeholder interactions with apparel companies in attempting to improve
environmental performance.
For this work, a stakeholder is defined as “any group or individual who is
affected by or can affect the achievement of an organization’s objectives” (Freeman,
1984, p. 5).Using Clarkson’s 1995 primary and secondary divisions for stakeholder
groups, it is determined that various different stakeholder groups are impacted by the
decisions made within the apparel industry. As such case studies were developed for a
primary group, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), as well as
two secondary groups, Organic Exchange (OE) and Ceres.
These case studies were developed using website analysis, semi-structured
interviews, and archival record searches. Each group shared their expectations for
environmental performance, which are currently not being met, as well as key
environmental issues they are working on within the apparel industry.
Three common environmental issues of concern for these three groups are
water usage, chemical use and management, and carbon footprint reduction. If an
apparel brand or retailer was unsure which issue to tackle first, this work suggests they focus on carbon footprint reduction because through this process the brand or retailer
will have visibility into their chemical use and water consumption.